Friday, 17 September 2010
The ground floor bales finish under the first floor joists, and the first floor bales will begin on top of the joists, so we have a gap in the zone of the floor joists (300mm deep) which needs to be insulated. This space is an awkward shape (mainly due to the floor joists being 'I' shaped), and we thought the easiest way to fill it tightly (with no air gaps) was with a hemp and lime insulation.
We wanted to test this first to see how difficult it was, how well it worked, and how long it would take to dry. The mix we used was 3 hemp to 1 lime with just enough water to coat. It is a dry mix.
Sunday, 12 September 2010
On the outside of the bales will be two coats of clay render, behind the timber cladding. This makes the straw air tight (but still breathable), fire proof and moisture resistant.
The first coat is a clay slip, made of clay and water, and any gaps between bales etc are filled with a straw & clay mix at this stage.
The second coat is a mixture of clay, chopped straw and sand.
We first tried out the first coat, shown here.
Saturday, 11 September 2010
We started stripping the straw bales out. When we had the bale moisture probe we had marked about 60% of the bales in this wall (south) as being wet. However, when we started dismantling it, the wet patches were much more extensive. We did not manage to salvage a single dry bale from the entire wall. The wet patches were very localised, making it difficult to pick them all up with the moisture probe.
It looks like the two main paths for the water into the bales were: tracking down the hazel stakes; and running down the timber posts, particularly where the additional posts are either side of window openings. We think the bales would have faired better if the top 1/2 course of bales had been fitted. This course was not staked with hazel and being orientated in the opposite direction would have prevented a buffer for the bales below.
The straw in the south wall is now stripped out.
Thursday, 9 September 2010
Wednesday, 8 September 2010
Tuesday, 7 September 2010
Monday, 6 September 2010
Sunday, 5 September 2010
Saturday, 4 September 2010
... and a reading taken. 10.3 means this bale can stay!
However, the problem we began to found was that water had very locally penetrated into a lot of the bales - ie where the hazels were located water had tracked down them into several courses of bales. This meant that the we could test both ends of a bale and it have an acceptable reading but miss the wet patch.
As a lot of our bales got wet during the very wet August we experienced, we borrowed a bale moisture probe to find out how far into the bales the moisture penetrated. Bales that have got wet in the centre will probably not dry out before they rot. The meter gives a moisture reading between 1 and 99.9. Anything below 16 is dry enough to stay, any bales with a reading greater than this will need to be removed from the walls.
Thursday, 2 September 2010
Wednesday, 1 September 2010
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)